Like children at many schools, my elementary school offered regular treat days. There was hot dog day, pizza day and also doughnut day, which offered students the opportunity to purchase these treats, with proceeds from the sales going to yearbook fundraising or to our high school’s graduating class to defray the costs of prom.
Going to a Jewish school meant that we had a few additional treats throughout the year to look forward to, though. On Chanukah, there were sufganiyot (jelly doughnuts), celebrating the custom of partaking in fried foods on the holiday. For Purim, we were given hamentashen, a three-cornered cookie traditionally eaten for that holiday. And then there was Yom Ha’atzmaut, which celebrates the Israeli declaration of independence. For this joyous occasion, my classmates and I were treated annually to a very special lunch: falafel.
Throughout the years of my childhood, falafel was a food reserved for special occasions, either Yom Ha’atzmaut or Folklorama, Winnipeg’s annual multicultural festival. As I grew older and gained greater control over my own eating habits, falafel took a more prominent place in my eating habits.
My love of falafel was only heightened by my first trip to Israel in 2006. Like hot dog stands in North America, falafel stands are ubiquitous in Israel and at only a couple of sheckels, a delicious and filling falafel shouldn’t run more than a dollar.
Wrapped in large, slightly chewy and light pitas (nothing like the dense pitas that you’ll find at most grocery stores in North America) or taboons (like a pita, but it doesn’t have a pocket), they are then filled with falafel balls – fried balls of ground chickpeas and/or fava beans, along with spices (usually coriander and cumin) and onions – as well as hummus and usually some combination of red/green cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and a host of other toppings, which may even include French fries, rolled into the wrap. The sandwhich is then dressed with tahini and harissa-based hot sauce.
Since moving to Victoria more than three years ago, the absence of a quality falafelry has weighed heavily on me. While it’s possible to purchase a poor imitation of a falafel virtually anywhere (Pita Pit, etc.), any real fan of falafel would hardly recognize it as the same sandwich. So you can only imagine my delight when a few weeks ago I noticed that a new restaurant called Beirut Express would be occupying part of the old Shiki Sushi on Fort Street.
Since opening on Canada Day, I’ve been to the restaurant three times – twice for falafel and once for a shawarma. The staff have been unfailingly friendly, though stopping in on Monday they could be forgiven if – during their first weekday lunch rush – they seemed a bit disorganized. For those accustomed to getting a quality falafel or shawarma for only a couple of dollars (something that’s possible even as close as Vancouver), you might be surprised to find the prices for a falafel or shawarma at eight dollars before taxes. Sure, it’s Fort Street in Victoria and rents aren’t cheap. But my personal belief is that street food – which both falafel and shawarma are certainly – should not cost more than five dollars.
The falafel wraps aren’t particularly big, and the topping choices are limited to lettuce, tomatoes and onions. Truth be told, the falafel was merely average. But an average falafel in Victoria is exceptional. The lamb in the shawarma was a bit tough, hopefully something that will be corrected once they’ve gotten their legs under them. Overall, the shawarma was only okay. For a five dollar shawarma, I expect better. For eight dollars, I expect much better.
I can’t emphasize enough that the business is new and they should be granted some time to get it right. In the meantime, so long as the customer service stays at its current level (as well as the falafel) I will celebrate the fact that after three years, Victoria finally has a legitimate falafelry.
